I wrote this about two years into Berlin. I wasn't sure "settling" was the right word. Now it's seven years. I'm still not sure. But I've accepted that this is my address.
My feet stopped. A side street in Kreuzberg. Autumn. Wet leaves on the sidewalk. Coffee smell drifting from a cafe. Not a special moment. But my body stopped walking. You can stay here, it said — not in words, in the way a held breath releases.
Thirty countries, and I'd never felt that. The signal to stop moving.
Coming to Berlin wasn't a plan. I had visa problems in Portugal. Germany was one of the few European countries that issued freelancer visas. The flight was cheap. That's the entire reason. If you were expecting a romantic story about destiny, I'm sorry. Most lives are decided by airfare prices.
The first six months were hard. I didn't speak German. I knew nobody. Berlin's winter means the sun sets at 3pm and the sky stays grey from November through March. For a Korean used to neon and noise — this darkness was foreign. Physically dark, socially dark. Germans are friendly but not close. You can know someone for three years and still use their last name.
But that distance — saved me.
I'd been carrying the weight of Korean proximity for twenty-five years. Everyone knowing your business. Everyone having opinions about your life. Everyone measuring you against a checklist you didn't write. Berlin's indifference was the opposite of that. Nobody cared what I did, how I lived, whether I was married, what I earned. Nobody asked. The absence of scrutiny felt, at first, like the absence of love. Later I understood it was the presence of space.
Space to breathe. Space to be wrong. Space to be nothing for a while, without anyone marking it on my permanent record.
Settling wasn't a moment. It was accumulation.
A favorite cafe appeared. The barista started remembering my order. I learned which bread at the supermarket was good. I learned the name of the neighbor's cat. The postman started nodding at me.
These things pile up, and one day you realize: oh. This is home.
Home turned out to be — not a grand thing. It was the sum of small daily repetitions. The home I'd been searching for across thirty countries was something that could only be built by staying in one place. Irony.
I'd spent years moving — Singapore, Bali, Lisbon, Barcelona — chasing something I couldn't name. Freedom, maybe. Or escape. Or the feeling that somewhere in the world there was a city-shaped hole that matched my shape, and I just had to keep trying cities until I clicked into place. Berlin was where I clicked. Not because Berlin is perfect — it isn't, it's bureaucratic and grey and the customer service would make a Korean person weep — but because my body said here and my body had been right about everything my mind had been wrong about, and I'd finally learned to listen.
Healing started in Berlin. I've written about returning to this city after 17 years and feeling nothing. About the Rothko painting that broke me open. Berlin held the container for all of that — the way a room holds a conversation. The conversation could have happened anywhere, maybe. But it happened here.
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Settling in Europe wasn't leaving Korea behind. It was leaving the version of me that Korea required. The diploma, the title, the age-appropriate behavior, the marriage timeline, the appropriate salary. I laid all of it down at the border and walked through lighter.
Europe didn't expect any of that. The absence of expectation was — sometimes hollow, mostly free.
Seven years. Berlin is my city now — I can say that without hesitation, which is itself a kind of miracle. I spent years unable to claim anything. Unable to say this is mine about a place, a plan, a future.
It's not a perfect fit. There are nights I miss Korea with a physical ache — the food, the speed, the way Korean feels in my mouth when I'm angry, the particular comfort of being in a country where nobody has to explain the jokes. I miss kimchi jjigae at 2am. I miss the chaos of Hongdae on a Friday. I miss being understood without having to translate myself.
But Berlin lets me breathe. Berlin lets me be the version of myself that doesn't perform. The one who works at odd hours and walks alone at midnight and doesn't answer the phone if she doesn't want to and builds things in silence without anyone asking when she's going to get a real job. That version of me — the truest one, the one I spent twenty-five years suppressing — can live here.
I decided to call that home.
Where is home for you? Did you find it, build it, or are you still looking?
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I write about freedom, healing, and building alone. The full archive is at soulin.co.